Відео

That is one possibility. The factory edges were actually not that sharp and the other edges can also easily be rounded with a few file strokes. Rubber dips that are meant for tool handles is also a good solution. you could easily dip all of the edges and create durable and attached rubber end which doesn't fall off. If you have a 3d printer you could also easily print the end caps. But then I suggest adding a drop of glue to prevent them from falling off.

Yes. It was pretty flimsy without proper supports. There are really high forces when lifting heavy loads so the stucture should be strong and rigid. In addition my hydraulics were acting up at the begining and only one of the cylinders got pressure. That caused uneven lifting which made the problem worse.

That could work. Or just use hack saw, hand drill and a file to make the slide 😁

Sure. After scan you will know what is availabl. Then you can connnect with normal connecting request.

@@CheapskateProjects It works, but i don't know how to choose available specific device, or use normal connecting request, can you help me?

@@sulthonswcreator3929 I would need to know a bit more what you are trying to do. Just connecting is pretty simple and the chip manual gives commands and parameters for that. But after connecting it's pretty different based on the device (keyboard, microphone, speaker, etc). Otherwise, you can just collect the known devices in array and find the correct based on id, name or whatever you know about the device. Unfortumately my module has been misplaced and I need to find it before actually testing anything 😁

@@CheapskateProjects how is your module has been misplaced, and what should it be?? I will try to scan and connect specific device from device name. I use Hc-05 to scan Bluetooth device, lcd 12x6 to show available device, and keypad module to select available device. After that, I want to show data from rn-41 Bluetooth devices in my serial monitor I'm sorry, i don't know what to do, because i'm a beginner. Thank you for your help 🙏

@@sulthonswcreator3929 there are probably good tutorials on how to communicate with bluetooth devices to achieve that last part. I haven't done much with different types of devices so I'm not the best help for that. And until I find my bluetooth module/device I can not test those things either. But otherwise your requirements should be easy to implement. The scan should just store found devices in array so that you can list them in lcd. And after selecting one you will know what index of array that is and get the adress there. Probably you need to be able to also write pin for protected connections if you use that kind of devices. But otherwise just sen pairing requests and then try to read outputs from devices.

There were few problems using that loader with snow. First of all the bucket was too small. It didn't clear the width of the tractor so snow got packed under the wheels. The other problem was the lack of bucket hydraulics. There were no way to change the bucket angle when moving snow so it easily either dug on the ground of didn't get all the snow. So, I did few changes. I bought a large snow bucket and modified it to match the bucket attachment on this loader. Furthermore I added a hydraulic cylinder to change the bucket angle. After those modifications it is amazing. We just had 15cm (6 inches) of wet snow last night and the loader didn't have any problems scooping it up or lifting it. The only problem was that the snow likes to stick to the bucket. I need to smoothen the inner surface as it is pretty rough. Then I will repaint it for the next winter so that the snow drops easily from the bucket.

@@CheapskateProjects I understand about the bucket not being wide enough to clear a large enough path without snow building up under the tractor. Especially heavy wet snow. I didn't notice the lack of a tilt dump for the bucket in your video. I'll bet the bigger bucket and a way to angle it were both a great addition once you did that. How is your traction with a bucket full of wet snow? Do you have tire chains on the rear? Have you ever considered a snow plow blade to attach to the bucket? To plow instead of scoop and dump? In any case, it sounds like you have made a good set up for your needs. Someday I hope to have a cab like yours on my Massey Ferguson 165. Thanks for your reply!

@@SPCLPONY Yes, there are tire chains on back wheels. I also have a snow blade on the back. It provides counterweight when the front bucket is full of wet snow. And it is also much more efficient way to clean roads. Actually I only use the frontloader and bucket to clean the area near my house where I need to be able to move the snow further away. I also bought an old snow blower implement (3 point hitch attachment powered by pto), but this winter has not been a good time to test it. The ground hasnt been frozen well enough and I don't want to throw rocks everywhere while breaking the blower 😁

@@CheapskateProjects Very good to hear that. I use a back blade once in awhile myself, but I prefer the snowplow on the front of my truck for the driveways and my barn yard. Like you, I use the loader to move snow away from areas where I don't want a big pile. I know what you mean about not using your 3 point hitch snow blower on a soft ground. I cringe when I hear gravel being thrown by somebody's machine when houses, cars or people are nearby.

No. That's why the diodes are there. As long as 12v source has higher voltage the 9v source doesn't provide current to the circuit.

That is right. Any additional gear that happens to fit in existing gearing between two gears won't change the pitch but will reverse the rotation.

Same as most of the gps devices. 10 meters or so. Not being too accurate in civilian use is one of the built in features of gps. Some gps devices fix this is software to get about 2m accuracy but I don't know any libraries I could use to do this in Arduino code.

mostly gps cardphone useing tower provider sig, that make vibe not fix longlat. but with android hardware solve all data, if you have RnD to compare give me know how much tolerance is that

@@firstianbudi The accuracy for tower based location varies widely depending on how many towers are nearby. On countryside you can rarely get even remotely accurate location and even inside cities the location is worse than with gps. Adding known open wlan locations will get you to tens of meters within highly populated areas. However tower, wlan or bluetooth beacon location is preferred within buildings as the gps signal is not strong enough to be used inside.

The inner fiber layer is complete inner tub. So it is what actually now hold the water instead of the wooden one. So it doesn't matter that the outer tub is no longer water tight. Actually it no longer was water tight because of the rot damage and that is why I made the inner tub in the firts place.

@@CheapskateProjects ok..a full first coat of fiberglass inside the hot tub.. and then repeated with gelcoat..right??and i understand the wood hasn't shrunk.. I am working with an old large wine barrel...a diameter of 180cm...and when I found it the wood was so dry that you could stick a finger between the wooden staves...that's what worries me...no keeping the wood moist so that the staves shrink... and it is already an aesthetic issue, not a watertight one.

@@eduardoanadon8588 Yes. You probably need more than one fiber layer. Otherwise it's too thin and will crack easily. The wood has a lot of force when it moves depending on the moisture. So depending on what the end result should be, you might want to put some plastic barrier between the wood and the first fiber layer to prevent it from sticking to the wood and enable movement. But then you will need more fiber layers as the wood structure and fiber structure are separate structures.

If I were to do this again I would do a few extra fiber layers on top of what I already have. That would give it more strength which it needs during winter when any leftover water will freeze. I did get a small crack during the first winter when it froze. But luckily it was in a spot that was easy to fix. But of course that meant gelcoat removal and repaint.

That version used primary cell battery so not rechargeable. But it would be possible to use NiMH battery and a simple trickle charge circuit to keep it topped up.

@@CheapskateProjects Much obliged. Thank you for your time.

There is a fuse to protect the psu for short circuits and other high current situations. Although the psu itself also has protection circuit for low voltage (too high current). There is a possibility for spike from motor when the motor stops. Although I think most of the drills have internal bypass diode to protect their internal circuits. If not, that can easily be added inside the drill. There is probably not any simple solution for all cases. Atx psu works to provide stabile dc source for most small current devices but they don't do well with high current devices like saws that have really high start current.

@@CheapskateProjects thanks for the info. 👍👍👍👍 The rest is what I thought.....

Each of the switch blocks have corresponding relay and heating element block on the receiver side. So you may add as many as you still have free pins in your arduino. Modify the code by adding new toSend values in transmitter.ino (maybe move the all flag to 6 is you want to use 4 and 5 to your next two signals). Then make same modifications to receiver.ino. So add targetRocket==4 and targetRocket==5 which are mapped to pins where you have connected the heating element blocks and again move the combination into targetRocket==6.

@@CheapskateProjects do you have a place where you show more of the specifics of the build or just the diagram?

You can usr whatever key kombination would otherwise wake the PC up. It will depend on the actual mode (power save or hibernate) as well as your OS.

I won't. I'm not an engineer and thus my calculations may be a bit off. So I don't want to be responsible if they are incorrect. Please use your own calculations based on the required capacity.

@@CheapskateProjects Understood Thank you

Thanks! Although, I'm not professional in any of those. But learning new things is what I live for.

Values are given in the video description text.

Better external antenna helps a bit. But the main problem is that the gps module needs to figure out the time before it can figure out the location. So, additional rtc module with a battery could be used to hold the time and make the location calculation faster on device start.

You can actually configure that by changing the update frequency. A single location package is very small but if you send them frequently enough it of course adds up. So if you have data limit or billing is based on transferred data, you can change the frequency accordingly.

I don't know how to make that kind of tracker without sim card. You need some way to transmit the location and mobile data or sms message is the solution which is usually available. You could use wifi module but then you would get the location only when the device is nearby some open hotspot. Or you could use some low bandwith isp solution but their coverage is not as good as with normal mobile data.

If you just use a transfer paper you should not need acetone. Just print the image on a transfer paper and transfer it to your metal surface. Of course you would need a laser printer with sufficient color capabilities to print the white so that it can be transferred. Another way would be to use inkjet printer like this ua-cam.com/video/Zq2O66QGCwg/v-deo.html

@@CheapskateProjects hey thanks for your input will have to try that

2G goes through obstacles pretty well. So the data sending side is usually not the problem. However, the GPS module doesn't handle obstacles well at all. So you will at least need external antennas is you plan on using the module in a closed place.

If there is antenna for neo-6m gps module

@@pondineshs2513 At least some modules have a connector for external antenna.

Okk

There may be some special sim packages depending on your mobile carrier. But any 2g sim should suffice.

Cool bandsaw. Any markings on the metal c-frame?

@@CheapskateProjects No C frame just bolts onto the post. Its in two parts. can find any markings.